I arrived in the evening around 11 pm in Denpasar, I had purchased my Visa for 25 US$ and walked out of the airport and the heat, humidity and an army of people wanting to transport me, sell me something or guide me almost beat me back inside.
I took a taxi to the Two Brothers Inn, but since Andrei was there 10 years ago they had closed. The taxi driver took me a little further to a rather crappy place.. I killed the cockroch that occupied my bed and went to sleep. So far so good.
The next morning I tried to find the city center or somewhere to buy a map, but I had big problems finding my way around, and since it was sunday much was closed.. and the rain really poured down. After a while I finally found a supermarket. Incredible crowded and even fuller of people offering me all kinds of things. I managed to buy a pineapple and then took a taxi to Kuta, the beach or tourist area of Denpasar - full of australians -, and checked into Berlian Inn.
Monday I went to Celuk and Ubud, about 40 km north of Denpasar. There I stayed at Wayan Family Homestay (60k rp/day). Ubud, although also quite touristic, is much much better than Denpasar and especially Kuta. Here the first shock started to go away.. and I could relax a little. From Ubud I participated in one guided tour to Gunung Batur (Mount Batur) and watched the sunrise over Gunung Abang and Gunung Agung, the highest mountain on Bali (3.142 meters). My group consisted of a French woman who spoke almost no english ("no speedy gonzales! no speed! no speed! normal speed! speed! i paid long trip! i paid long trip! hoppala!") and an impatient guide who did not manage to understand a word of what she said. So I ended up in the middle, negotiating between them. It got very complicated when the guide wanted to ask us if we wanted to go the short or the long version of the long trip.


Mt. Abang and Mt. Agung in the background.
North side and the crater.

Tuesday I rented a scooter in Ubud for 40.000 rupia and filled the tank for 12.000 rupiah (thats about 6 kr, or 80 euro cents) and drove in the direction of Tempaksiring and Gunung Kawi, a temple. It took some time to get used to the left hand driving and a chaos where I am surprised there are not more accidents.. but it was a very social experience. After about 40 minutes I stopped to ask the way and was surrounded by people trying to sell me sarongs and big wooden things that I couldn´t possible carry on the bike anyway (although the Indonesians can carry anything on a scooter, from big TV´s to the entire family). You need one to get into the temple so I bought two, one for 70k and one for 30k, as I got to the temple (after a small d-tour back to the hotel to pick up my driving license) I was offered two for 10.000. The temple lies between the rice fields, located in a valley, and a bit out of the main road of the tourist hordes. Know for the large statues maced out of the mountain representing King Anak Wungsu, his sons and their favorite concubines.

In Ubud I also visited the Monkey Forest, full with funny monkeys and some old ruins and some temples that I don´t know exactly what are.

Next morning I took the shuttle bus back to Kuta for 35.000 rupia spending two hours on 40 km because of massive traffic jams outside every gas station on the road, except the empty ones. Indonesia is suffering from an gas and oil crisis where importing oil would be much to expensive compared to the heavily subsided local oil. There were riots the last time the government tried to lower the subsidies. This means that when a gas truck arrives at a gas station the streets quickly queue up until it is empty. In the districts people are sometimes getting back to using oxes for transportation.
In Kuta I stayed for 30.000 rupiahs at Awathara something and left early in the morning for the airport going to Jakarta to vist Thomas! And even all Indonesian air lines are banned in Europe the worst thing that happened was that a little girl threw up on my shoes.
This massive city is, apart from being Indonesias biggest and capital, a constant traffic jam, with 35.000 cars and motorcycles entering each month it doesn´t look like it is getting any better. The city is not very rich on clear tourist attractions and the main activity of the Jakartians seems to be going to the many, gigantic, shopping malls. Grand Indonesia was, and is going to be again, the largest mall in South-Asia. Apart from shopping, I visited the Monumen Nasional - Soehartos final erection, the old city, Kota, where the buildings from the colonial time stands and played football with the street kids, and wandered a bit around in the smoggy heat of Jl. Jaksa, and ate a lot of Dunkin´s Donuts. Tomorrow I am going to Yogyakarta, further east, a 8 hour train ride - 160.000 rupiahs for executive class - and will continue to Gunung Bromo after some days. I need to be in Denpasar by the 18th when my plane leaves in the evening for Sydney.
Jl. Jaksa
Right: Monas - Monumen Nasional
Bemo - Local busses, in Kota
Kota
I am finally starting to feel more comfortable with Indonesia and don´t really want to leave soon already, to get out of the main stream of tourist where most of the people I meet just wants to sell me overpriced crap I need a bit more time. In the first week in Bali of all the indonesians I spoke with only one did not want to sell me something. In Jakarta this is much better and just walking around alot of people start talking to me. Like when I accidently walked into a whole bunch of policemen sitting outside the National Monument they wanted to take photos with me and shouted to me, apparently very funny.. at least for them - I decided to take another road to get into the monument. But here I also notice sometimes, escpecially in Kota less friendly looks and shouts.